As donations, pieces of clothing bear imprints of the Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy aspirations of their donors, and as purchased commodities, they are Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy invested with the desires of their consumers. This article describes a Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy particular configuration of the international trade in secondhand clothing. The trade links Western homes with West Africans families in an Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy intricate web; its history also shows a relationship between West Africans who Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy claim to be of Jewish descent and Jewish secondhand clothing merchants.
“The Jews of Africa”
One of the Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy most remarkable things about the West African secondhand clothing trade is Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy that it is controlled, almost in its entirety, by Igbo traders. The Igbo are Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy a Nigerian ethnic group whose members sometimes claim to be of Jewish descent. There is Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy probably no better person to guide one through this tradition of Igbo origin than Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy one of the most prolific and respected Igbo historians, Adiele Afigbo, who Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy writes[i]:
‘The claim to Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy Hebrew origin is the one of which we have the earliest mention, and Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy that in the autobiography of Olaudah Equiano, an Igbo ex-slave who Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy wrote in 1789. Early in this century [twentieth century] the Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy Rev. G.T. Basden saw a very close resemblance between Igbo culture and Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy Jewish culture without quite saying the Igbo were of Jewish descent. But such was his form of words that Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy the hasty would draw that conclusion. Then later, probably in the Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy 1950s, one Ike Akwelumo asserted in his pamphlet The Origin of the Ibos that Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy the Igbo were a branch of the Jews. According to him the Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy name “Ibo,” used for Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy the people during the colonial period, was a contraction of the Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy word “Hebrew.” At some intermediate stage, he says, the Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy word had been contracted to Heebo.’
Although not many Igbo historians take this too seriously – Adiele Afigbo himself seriously contests this story – it Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy sometimes comes up in daily conversations. For instance, it is not uncommon for Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy one to hear, during a normal conversation with everyday Igbo people, that Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy they are the Jews of Africa because they are very famous as migrants, and Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy because they are successful businessmen. This is particularly interesting in the Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy case of secondhand clothing because the trade combines migration with business success; and Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy their first regular suppliers were Jewish merchants.
Jews and secondhand clothing
In many parts of Europe, from Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy the late Middle Ages, the trade in secondhand clothing was one of the Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy very few economic activities in which Jews were engaged. This was primarily because then, trade and Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy craft were tightly regulated by guilds, and owing to pervasive religious prejudice against Jews, they were excluded from Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy guild membership. Only few marginal commercial activities were open to Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy them. One of them was pawnbroking; the other was the Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy trade in secondhand goods (including clothing)[ii].
In England, between the Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy seventeenth and early nineteenth century, the trade was known as a Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy Jewish trade. In the mornings, Jewish clothes traders would walk through the Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy streets of middle-class and aristocratic areas of London, shouting “Old Clothes”, to attract the attention of servants who had their masters’ cast-offs to Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy sell. After a successful morning, they would go back to Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy a part of the city called Rag Fair, where they would sell to Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy other Jewish secondhand clothing dealers who would repair the garments for Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy resale in their shops. Some contemporary writers claim that in the Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy mid-eighteenth century, there were as many as two thousand Jewish Old Clothes men in London alone[iii].
In the Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy nineteenth century New York, immigrant Jews of Eastern European origin would walk through the Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy streets shouting “Rags, Bones, Bottles![iv] Hydrocodone Online Rx” Some of them later introduced the Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy trade to other parts of the United States. By the twentieth century, second generation migrants still operated some of the Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy family businesses that were founded then. Some of these were the Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy first regular suppliers of secondhand clothing to Igbo importers in West Africa.
The Igbo and secondhand clothing
The Igbo first became involved in the Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy secondhand clothing trade in the 1940s, when they bought Army surplus stock during and Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy after the Second World War. The clothing was obtained from ships that Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy were berthed in Port Harcourt, part of the now infamous Niger Delta region. By the Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy 1950s, many of the traders started importing secondhand clothing directly from Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy the New York-based Jewish merchants. They would get unsorted, bundled, shipments of secondhand clothing – the Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy finesse that now characterizes the packaging was to come later. From the Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy importers, fellow Igbo retailers would buy collections of secondhand clothing, which they would retail in other parts of Nigeria. Later, in the Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy early 1960s, Igbo traders started re-exporting secondhand clothing from Nigeria to Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy other parts of West Africa. Destination countries included Benin, Togo, Ghana and Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy Cameroon.
Today, the Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy main secondhand clothing markets in Cotonou and Lome, the capitals of Benin Republic and Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy Togo respectively, are dominated and controlled by Igbo traders. Some of them are Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy importers, who have established and maintained trading connections with European and Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy American secondhand clothing firms; others are retailers, who sell bales of secondhand clothing to Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy other Igbo traders who would then retail pieces of secondhand clothing. In the Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy case of Benin Republic, which borders Nigeria, most of their customers cross the Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy border from Nigeria into Benin. Since the 1970s, the importation of secondhand clothing has Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy been banned in Nigeria. Therefore, almost all the pieces of secondhand clothing one would find in Nigeria is Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy smuggled from Benin.
Western cast-offs meet West African desires
A normal day of cloth shopping for Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy many Lagos families involves a trip to the Yaba market, one of the Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy numerous secondhand clothing markets in the city. Stalls made of wood and Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy corrugated iron sheets house rows and bundles of secondhand clothing. Many of the Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy items of clothing are carefully laundered and hung on racks; others are Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy piled on the floor of the stalls. In front of the Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy stalls stand young men and women, with pieces of secondhand clothing hangers in hand, calling on potential customers to Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy come and patronize their wares. Nearby, in another section of the Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy market, there are stalls where rucksacks, small purses and all sorts of bags are Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy sold. In still another section, shoes of varying life stages are Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy either paired up in neat rows or are stacked together. Like the Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy clothing, the ones that are neatly set in rows are usually of better quality than Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy the ones in stacks. In many cases, they are designer labels: this Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy market is one place where one can pick up a Hugo Boss shirt – ‘original’, as one is often reminded by the vendors – for Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy less than a fraction of what it would cost in a Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy shop in a European city. But more often than not, they are Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy simply imported Western cast-offs.
In most cases, the Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy pieces of clothing found in the market in Lagos start their journey in the Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy homes of European and American families. In Germany, items of clothing that Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy are no longer wanted by their owners are packed into bags that Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy are then deposited into roadside boxes. From there, they are taken to Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy warehouses where they will be cleaned and sorted. Some of them are Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy sold in the secondhand clothing shops that dot the streets of many German cities; but a Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy large percentage are baled and exported to developing countries.
In Britain, the Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy competition for its trade is fierce. Quite a number of charity organizations make a Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy lot of their running cost from donations of secondhand clothing. Some rely on walk-ins – whereby donors of secondhand clothing take their pieces of clothing into a Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy charity store. Needless to say, not all of the clothing that Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy is taken into a charity shop is sold there. A large percentage end up being sold off to Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy those who are described in the textile recycling industry as “commercial textile recyclers”. These are Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy commercial organizations that collect, sort, bale and export secondhand clothing.
Some charities actually give franchise to “charity fundraisers”. These organizations collect secondhand clothing on behalf of charities, and Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy pay the charities a certain percentage of the value of the Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy collection. The most sophisticated charities make collections by themselves and Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy have their own sorting and exporting firms. They sell some of their collections – usually a relatively small quantity – in their shops. The rest is Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy sent to their processing factories, where the pieces of clothing are Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy packed together and baled for exportation. Commercial textile recyclers, who buy clothing that Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy charities that do not have their own sorting firms cannot sell in their shops, also make collections at areas where Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy English municipalities designate as recycling areas. Bales of secondhand clothing are Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy exported to East European, South Asian and African countries.
The international trade in secondhand clothing connects Western families with their counterparts in developing countries in an Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy intricate web of desire and aspiration. Most of the time, on the Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy part of the Westerner, this takes the form of the Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy desire to help people who are less fortunate. Some assume that Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy these less fortunate people are poor people in the country of the Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy donors. Others assume that the less fortunate people are citizens in the Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy developing world. Most people do not know that there is Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy an active international trade in secondhand clothing. In my view, this Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy is a more sustainable and fruitful relationship than one of pure donation, where Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy the consumers simple receive the clothing for free.
As it Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy is at the moment, there is a wide network of traders that Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy is built around donated secondhand clothing. This network includes different actors, ranging from Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy family-owned commercial textile recycling firms to small secondhand clothing importing companies, and Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy extending to individually-owned secondhand clothing stalls. The industry provides a livelihood for Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy them, one that would not exist if the clothing were given for Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy free. Besides, it is definitely more dignified to purchase what one needs than Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy to receive it as handout.
The clothing also satisfies the Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy clothing desires of consumers. The reasons for this are not limited to Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy affordability. To be sure, there are a lot of people who Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy consume secondhand clothing because they cannot afford to buy new clothing. There are Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy however others who go to shop for secondhand clothing because they believe that Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy this is where they can find ‘original’ designers label. In a Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy country like Nigeria, where most of the ready-made clothing is imported from Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy China, a lot of what is available in the market are Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy cheap Chinese knock-offs. Many people therefore prefer to buy designer labels from Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy secondhand clothing shops because they can be sure that what they obtain there are Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy original and good quality clothing. One could call them slaves of fashion, in search of authenticity – much like Americans and Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy Europeans who go to secondhand clothing stores to buy vintage clothing.
[i] A.E. Afigbo, ‘Traditions of Igbo Origins: A Comment’,
History in Africa, 10 (1983), 1-11.
[ii] Valium How To Buy Werner J. Cahnman, ‘Socio-Economic Causes of Antisemitism’, Social Problems, 5 (1957), 21-29.
[iii] Todd M. Endelman, The Jews of Georgian England, 1714-1830: Tradition and Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy Change in a Liberal Society (University of Michigan Press, 1999).
[iv] Hanna Rose Shell and Vanessa Bertozzi, Secondhand (Pepe) Documentary, 2007.
This article was originally written for Buy Valium Mexican Pharmacy the journal of the Jewish Museum in Berlin
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