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The cultural significance of America’s increasing consumption of sushi

4 Dec

Typical home delivery Sushi platter.

Image via Wikipedia

By FT’s Gillian Tett:

… in just a few years, sushi has colonised urban centres with startling speed. The first wave of sushi restaurants cropped up in California in the 1970s, partly to service the estimated one million Americans of Japanese descent. But now they are ubiquitous, serving Caucasians too: teenagers take sushi to school; prisons have introduced it; in California, it is served at trucker stops. Meanwhile the National Sushi Association reports that there are now more than 5,000 sushi bars in American supermarkets, with the number continuing to rise fast.

….

The cultural messages embedded in this shift are fascinating. If you are feeling optimistic, you might like to see the sushi invasion as a sign of globalisation – and America’s ability to act as a cultural melting pot. One of the most popular sushi dishes these days is the “California” sushi roll, which blends traditional rice with non-Japanese items such as avocado. In New York you can find “SushiSamba”, which mixes Latin American cuisine with that raw fish. But perhaps the most intriguing issue of all is the ethnicity of sushi restaurant staff. These days sushi restaurants often struggle to get “real” Japanese chefs, since there are not enough to meet the boom. So Chinese, Vietnamese or Filipino staff are used instead. The assumption, it seems, is that Asian faces are required to make the sushi restaurant look “real”; but many customers cannot really tell Chinese and Japanese apart. “Globalisation doesn’t necessarily homogenise cultural differences nor erase the salience of cultural labels. On the contrary, it grows the franchise,” observes Bestor. “The brand equity of sushi as Japanese cultural property adds to the cachet of the country and cuisine.” Even if the face is actually Chinese.

Read in full.

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On Britain’s changing spending habits

15 Mar

Bars of soap, lipstick and pitta bread are out; hair straighteners, garlic bread and Blu-ray disc players are in. The latest shake-up of the shopping “basket” used to measure UK inflation shines a light on Britain’s changing spending habits.

Check the article here.

Anybody knows of any contemporary anthropological studies of changes in consumption/spending habits?

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China throws birthday party for Mugabe

22 Feb

Mugabe “thanked the Chinese embassy for its painstaking preparations for the birthday celebration and … hoped to further expand friendly cooperative relations in every field between the two nations”, the foreign ministry said.

The ministry’s website (www.mfa.gov.cn) showed pictures of Mugabe cutting a birthday cake in front of a large sign wishing him “Happy 86th birthday” and addressing almost 100 guests.

Really, no kidding.

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My column on kids

21 Sep

was published a couple of weeks ago. It is here, but I have pasted the full text below.

Thinking through kids
Olumide Abimbola

Act One
A couple of days ago I joined one of my friends to pick up his daughter at the kindergarten. This was the first time I was seeing her in close to two years; the last time I saw and carried her she was just about 4 months old. Of course, she didn’t remember me, so I had to find a way to charm myself into her favour. The first steps involved me smiling sheepishly, talking gently and offering my arms to her. She refused all the advances, despite the very hearty encouragement from her father.

We left the kindergarten and headed for a café, where my friend pulled out a lunch box filled with grapes. It was obviously something she loves very much. Still trying to get her attention, I took one of the grapes and offered it to her. She, as I suspected, refused. But then, something else happened that got me thinking about reciprocity and economic exchange. As I was trying to ingratiate myself in her favour without much success, her father gave her a grape to give to me. She collected the grape and passed it on. Then he gave me a grape to offer her; this time, she accepted it. From then on things went pretty smoothly.

What I took away from this has nothing to do with trust and child psychology, at least not directly. I realized that I just witnessed, from a child, one of the most cardinal things in human economic relations: reciprocity. At that moment, with that little girl, I realized that I was witnessing the early traces of that social characteristic of the human. I could not help but wonder – and this is the part where I need the help of child psychologists – when kids start putting a value to things, what values mean to them and how they relate to values.

Act Two
Another friend’s daughter made her parents promise to get her a Spider-man cake for her third birthday. But all these were to change just shortly before the birthday. Sometime between the day she elicited the promise from her parents and shortly before her birthday she changed her mind. She had just joined a kindergarten, where she learnt about the differences between what a boy should want and what a girl should want.

She learnt that she liked pink – something she did not know until she joined the kindergarten. She also found out that she wanted to be a princess. Her mother started getting requests concerning pink dresses for princesses. Boys were supposed to be knights. In fact, one of her male friends was waving a sword, slicing the air, when I met him. Of course, her relationship with Spider-man changed; she wanted a princess cake instead. She had learnt that Spider-man is for boys and princess for girls.

This got me thinking about how children are socialised by each other. Someone mentioned to me that children are very serious conformists, and that kids always strive to be like their mates, never wanting to unduly stand out. How many kids have quickly forgotten languages they acquired while living abroad because they are afraid that their mates would make fun of their difference? How many kids have joined in making fun of other kids who look like they might not ‘belong’? Of course, prejudices that kids display are picked from adults; and it is presumable that the children who are the first to bring the idea of gender roles and differences into the kindergarten somehow got it from adults.

It is interesting to watch kids learn from their parents and from each other. But perhaps the most important thing is what one learns from watching them learn: the importance of socialisation, and of being social.

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